WWW.BATTLEWING.NET

 Frequently Asked Questions   
   This list is generated from customer e-mails.

  1. C.G. (Center of Gravity)
    1. 6 3/4 inches  from front nose of plane towards the rear.
      1. C.G. is critical on this wing otherwise it flies like crap. (i.e. not good).
    2. Use a Nickel in the battery bay as weight to fine tune your plane to find you balance, then cut the battery tray foam and move your battery accordingly.
    3. Some planes come with custom names applied to the left side of the airleron. This is enough to unbalance the plane.
      1. Solution is to put a penny or nickel in the battery bay.
      2. Permanent solution is to cut a pocket with a exact-o blade at the front bottom of the battery bay cutting towards the front and slip the coin in the slot. No glue is required. Since the Velcro strap is in the way you have to cut on either side to mount the coin. Balance is not an issue if you use one coin.
      3. Another solution is the cut the battery foam and move the battery forward.

  2. Core
    1. What type of foam is it?
      1. EPP 1.9lbs Foam (Expanded PolyPropylene)
    1. My wing cracked in half because I let my friend fly it full throttle into the ground. What do I do?
      1. Use Hot Glue for all repairs. An alternative is to use Gorilla Glue to mend the wing together and let it sit over night.
      2. Test your hot glue on a small section to make sure it does not melt. We use the Dremel Glue Gun. (Picture from Doug Schafer)

  3. Dimensions:
    1. Width: 31 inches.
    2. Height: 1.5 inches (Body), 3 inches (Fins).
    3. Depth: 16 inches.
    4. Weight: 10 oz

  4. Fins
    1. We use  white EPP 1.9lbs Foam, 10mm thickness.
    2. The fins are designed to drag the wing tips to maintain a straight flight path
    3. The "V" design is meant to cup the wind or generate a high angle surface if the wing gets sideways during slow flight which virtually eliminate tip stalls.

  5. Routed battery bay
    1. The battery bay can be moved or cut to accommodate a different batteries as long as you achieve your center of gravity for the plane.

  6. Routed servo bay
    1. The Servo Bays are cut deep so the servo horn does not protrude above the surface of the wing. This is designed to avoid stripping the servos during combat.

  7. Routed receiver/ESC bay

  8. Engine mount
    1. What type of wood is it made of?
      1. Cherry Wood or other hard wood.
      2. BWv3 version uses 1/8" Thick engine mount.
    2. "-2" degree down pitch.
      1. The engine mount has a -2 degree down pitch to counteract the lift properties of the wing at full throttle.
    3. What of screws do I use?
      1. 2 X 1/4" The key is the number "2".
      2. These can be bought at you local Hobby Shop.
  9. Ailerons
    1. EPP 1.9lbs Foam (Expanded PolyPropylene)
    2. A thin sheet is cut, sprayed with 3M 77 Adhesive, layered with Ultracoat and then heat set in place for a ridge aileron.
    3. This material can bend and still maintain its shape after a hit.
    4. Apply heat or use a heat iron to press the film back on the foam to get rid of wrinkle that my occur over time.

  10. Control horn linkage to ailerons
    1. Make sure you do not have any slope or play in you connection from the control horn the control rods.
    2. If you do have play the wing will hunt up and down making the plane not fly well and have a unpredictable flight path.
  11. Nine Gram servos
    1. We use the Hextronix 9 gram servo.
  12.  
  13. ESC 12Amp (Electronic Speed Controller)
    1. You can use any 12 amp or higher electronic speed controller.
  14. Lipo Battery
    1. use can use any 1000mAh Lipo battery.
    1. Battery flight time last around 10 to 12 minutes.

  15. Five inch propeller
    1. What type of Propeller do you use. It is a GWS EP-5043 Propeller.
    2. Picture1, Picture2
    3. You can use a 6" propeller from GWS but testing show the RPM of the motor is too high the 6" version and will cause a loud vibrating sound at full throttle.
      1. Other have used the stiffer 6" propellers (Grey APC props) designed for faster speeds but the trade off is the prop is heavier and you don't get that much more advantage besides they are more expensive.
      2. When you battle the propeller is the first thing to break. Expect to break 3 to 6 props in 1 hour.
    4. If you have a weak or old battery and your engine keeps cutting out in mid flight then you will need to go to a 5030 or lower to reduce current draw. The ESC will sense the battery can not handle the output required to energize the motor therefore it will shut down the motor but your servos will remain active.

  16. 25gram Brushless Outrunner Motor
    1. We use a Hextronix and Turnigy motors. Also know as Old blue that have 12 stators with a high KV winding (3000kv)
    2. The Battlewing should will fly out of your hands and climb vertical (at a modest rate) on a 2cell battery.
      Example of 20g motor and the 25g motor.
    3. Prop save has to be ground down for the 5043 props to fit. Video.

  17. Prop saver rubber bands
    1. A black O-Ring comes with the motor. For a replacement we use another type of O-ring or the yellow/orange 3/8" to 1/2" surgical tubing (thin wall).
    2. Other alternatives are Orthodontic Elastics or Hair rubber band used to make girls pony tails but you will need to use 3 bands at one time.
    3. The replacement O-Ring is the: N70-015.
      1. N70 = Durometer level = Slightly stretchy. In Contract the N90 is too hard and does not stretch.
      2. 015 =  Predetermined size and thickness of the o-ring.
      3. You can also use N70-014 to N70-017.

  18. Mounting and testing

  19. Reinforcement tape
    1. You must lay a layer of smeared hot glue on the foam first if you want the tape to adhere.
    2. Flex in the wing causing the tape to buckle and create air pockets. This dries out the tape and to loose adhesion. Using hot glue as a platform and to seal the edges significantly increases the life of the tape.