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 Setup - BattleWing V1

This page is designed to help people who have bought the Basic Core BattleWing and need guidance to properly build the plane. The following steps will describe how I build the BattleWing starting with the basic Core BattleWing to the final "Almost Ready to Fly" BattleWing.

Steps Pictures
Basic Core
Remove slag.
This will take 10 to 15 minutes.
Join wing ends together using White Gorilla Glue.
Most FOAM SAFE glue will work but don't use CA style foam glue.

Titebond is also good but is will leave an amber glue mark when it dries.
Cut 45 degree angle on bottom of rear leading edge.
This will be used as part of the hinge for the ailerons.
Cut out battery bay.
Yes, I have a template and router (Dremel) so you will need to trace your part (Servo, Battery, etc..) and start cutting into the foam, little by little. You will need to pick at it until you reach the correct depth because you won't be able to cut sideways.
Too much work? You always can buy an Advance Build wing from me.
Cut out the servo bays.

The numbers on the template also incorporate the depth of the wood which is 1/4".
Cut out ESC/receiver bay and rear firewall section for engine mount.
ESC = (Electronic Speed Controller)

Last pictures shows a split core (bottom) and full core (top)
Install top and bottom engine bulk head support.

I have a small band saw that does all my 45 degree angle cuts.
Install wood engine firewall.
Wood is 1in x 1in at 1/8" to 1/4" depth.

The wood piece is countersunk into the foam.

UPDATE: You can use Foam Safe Glue or Hot Glue to mount the wood.

Apply tape to engine firewall
Install hatch for ESC/receiver
Install tape to over battery bay and hatch
Install tape on the bottom of plane for skid plate.

This also helps from letting your battery taking a piece of foam with it when it gets hit from below. It's not good when you battery is going one direction and your plane is going another direction.
Apply tape to front of wing's Leading Edge (LE).

I split the tape in two.

POST BUILD UPDATE:
I've noticed on my plane that the top edge of the tape start to peel off faster than the bottom due to the constant flex of the wing when banking or turning. Apply hotglue to the leading edge before seating the tape on the wing, at least for the top narrow section of the wing leading edge.
Place a bead of hot glue on the top of the rear leading edge.
This will aid in the adhesion for the tape when the ailerons are installed.
Build ailerons

Attach ailerons to wing.

Note the different sized in tape width.
Ref: 3rd picture.
Larger width (left side) for top of ailerons.
Smaller width (right side) for bottom of ailerons.
 
Reinforce tape by running a small bead of hot glue along ALL edges.
Force the hot glue in to the open cells or crack by smearing it with a knife of blade.
With out doing this the tape will peel back and eventually come off.
Blenderm tape has the same problem.
3M spray adhesive is worse on a EPP foam that has been cut by hotwire.

The old style of applying tape with adhesive spray does work well on the Wild Wing only because the wing is formed under pressure and has a skin for the tape to adhere to. The wings cut with a hot wire, like the BattleWing do not have this skin and therefore the tape has less surface area to grab due to the open cells cut by the hot wire. You must take extra step to ensure the tape stays on during battle.
 
POST BUILD UPDATE:
I had to add a strip of tape to the bottom middle of the wing to keep it from flexing too much during hard turns. After a 2 months of flying the tape mounted on the top front edge of the wing would buckle and start to peel off even when hot glue was applied.
Last picture show the top front of the wing being bent and the tape starting to peel off.
Create vent holes for ESC   
Install outer black fins.

Update: Picture show me using Gorilla Glue but Hot Glue (High Temp) adheres better this section of the build. Because the Hot Glue works so well the small reinforcement tape  was deleted from build. Last picture still shows tape (no longer needed).

***Fins should be mounted Half above and Half below the fin.

Do not mount fins above the wing line otherwise the wing will not have traction at low speeds.
 
I sharpen my exacto a lot during a build. One blade will last me 1-2 months before it gets to short to cut with.  
Install control horns.

Any control horn will do.
 
Cut holes of for Velcro battery strap
Create internal channel for wires from servo bay to receiver bay
Install servos.

I use the Servo Driver to center the servo so I don't have to connect it my transmitter.
I'm then able to place it in the wing with servo horn in the correct position.


Cut slots for the servo tabs so the servo can go all the way to the bottom of the servo bay.


Install control wires/linkage
Cut a channel just below control rod so that it is flush with the surface
This finished the Advance build minus the servos.
Mounting the engine.

It is better to drill a pilot hole rather than user a auger to ream a hole.

Make sure to use loctite or some kind of thread lock liquid due to all the vibrations.

Electronic Speed Controller:
This particular speed controller does not come with a battery connector so I have to solder on a male JST connector.

Connecting the ESC leads to the motor.

Temporarily solder the leads to the motor leads to test which direction the engine will spin. Here I use a servo driver to act like my transmitter's throttle to see which way it spins.  Once satisfied I solder the wires properly and use heat shrink tubing to cover the exposed wires connections.
Mounting the battery connector with in the wing.

Cut the hole for the connector above the servo wire channel. Push the connector through the servo wire hole and use tools to force it through the small hole you just cut. The foam will bend enough for you to get the connection through the hole.

Use hot glue to secure the connector.

Finished product.

Now add your electronics.
   
   
Removing servos for repair